My direction is the Fonda Inglese | St. Iago.
Thursday
My dear Fitz Roy,
I arrived at this gay city late last night, and am now most comfortably established at
an English Hotel. My little circuit by Quellota and Aconcagua
was exceedingly pleasant The difficulty in ascending the Campana is most absurdly
exaggerated We rode up 5/6ths of the height to a spring called the Aqua
del Guanaco & there bivouacked for two nights in a beautiful little arbor of
Bamboos. I spent one whole day on the very summit, the view is not so pictur-esque as
interesting from giving so excellent a plan of the whole country from the Andes to the
sea— I do not think I ever more thoroughly enjoyed a days rambling. From
Quellota I went to some Copper Mines beyond Aconcagua situated in a Ravine in the
Cordilleras The major domo is a good simple hearted Cornish Miner— It would do
Sulivan good to hear his constant exclamation ``As for London—what is London?
they can do anything in my country.'' I enjoyed climb-ing about the mountains to my
hearts content the snow however at present quite prevents the reaching any
elevation— On Monday my Cornish friend and myself narrowly escaped being
snowed in. we were involved in a multitude of snow banks, and a few hours
afterwards there was a heavy snow-storm which would have completely puzzled
us— The next morning I started for this place. I never saw anything so
gloriously beautiful as the view of the mountains with their fresh and brilliant
clothing of Snow— Altogether I am delighted with the Country of
Chile— The country Chilenos themselves appear to me a very uninteresting race
of people— They have lost much individual character in an essay towards an
approximation to civilization My ride has enabled me to understand a little of
the Geology—there is nothing of particular interest—all the rocks
have been frizzled melted and bedevilled in every possible fashion. But here also the
``con-founded Frenchmen'' have been at work. A M: Gay has given me to day a copy of a
paper, with some interesting details about the Geology of this province published by
himself in the Annales des Sciences— I have been very
busy all day, and have seen a host of people. I called on Col. Walpole, but he was in
bed—or said so.— Corfield took me to dine with a Mr
Kennedy, who talks much about the Adventure & Beagle; he says he saw you at
Chiloe— I have seen a strange genius a Major Sutcliffe. he tells me as soon as he heard there were two English Surveying Vessels at
Valparaiso, he sent a Book of old Voyages in the Straits of Magellan to
Mr Caldcleugh to be forwarded to the Commanding Officer as they might
prove of service— He has not heard, whether Mr Caldcleugh has
sent them to you— I told him I would mention the circumstance when I
wrote.— The Major is inclined to be very civil— I do not know what
to make of him. He is full of marvellous stories; and to the surprise of every one every
now & then some of them are proved to be true— My head is full of
schemes; I shall not remain long here, although from the little I have yet seen I feel
much inclined to like it. How very striking & beautiful the situation of the
city is— I sat for an hour gazing all round me, from the little hill of
St Lucia. I wish you could come here to readmire the glorious
prospect— I can by no means procure any sort of Map.— you could most
exceedingly oblige me if you would get King to trace from Miers
a little piece of the Country from Valparaiso to a degree south of
R. Rapel—without any mountains. I do not think it will be more than 12 an hours work— I have some intention of returning to Valparaiso by
the Rapel.— If you would send me this soon and half a dozen lines,
mentioning, if you should know anything about the Samarangs movements; it would assist
me in my schemes very much—
Adios, dear Fitz Roy | yr. faithful Philos. |
C. D.