From C. V. Smith [1879]1
South West Pacific
Niua-fu or Good Hope Island which I presume to be the same as that Onouafu in “Coral Reefs” is entirely volcanic and has no reef whatever.2 The shores are steep to. There is a salt water lake about 6 miles in circumference connected with the sea by a very narrow stream. The island is about 500 feet high. There are several craters and I was informed that some had very recently been in a state of activity. (June 1872)
Wallis Island is encircled. There are 11 islands, 7 of which are on the outer reef. Its native name is Uea3
Horn Islands comprising Fotuna and Alofa each have a distinct fringing reef. Fotuna is about 2500 feet and Alofa 1200 feet high.4 I can give you no information regarding the depth of water except that there is a deep ship channel between the islands no soundings being obtainable with the hand line. The channel is barely a mile broad.
Mitchell Island to the south of the Ellice Group is a very low atoll with about 10 small islands on the reef.5 We were unable to discover any entrance into the lagoon
“Grand Cocal was searched for in vain by HMS Basilisk and as all the local traders deny its existence, I cannot think it exists. It has long been marked doubtful on the Admiralty charts and the description leads me to suppose the island reported to have been St. Augustine6
Sapona or Edgecumbe Island (Otooboa of Dillon”) has a barrier reef with a four fathom channel through it which leads into a harbour in the island itself.7 There is also deep but uneven water generally inside the reef
Espiritu Santo and the Banks’ Islands have reefs of the fringing kind as also have all the New Hebrides & Torres Groups.8
Indian Ocean
St. Jean de Nova or Farquhar Islands is an undoubted atoll with 4 large & several smaller islands.9 There is a channel into the lagoon at the N.W. side between the largest island and the Western reef. A coral bank of considerable extent stretches off the southern end of the atoll with 5 fathoms of water on it.
Aldabra is undoubtedly an upheaved atoll. The account in Horsburgh is very misleading as neither the red cliffs nor high forests were to be found.10 It is entirely composed of coral rock with a fine growth of mangroves enclosing an extensive but shallow lagoon. There is a narrow riband of 9 fathoms water running 3 miles into the lagoon from the N.W. corner.
Great Comoro is volcanic and about 8600 feet high.11 There is a little fringing reef on the North & S.E. sides
The above islands were surveyed by H.M.S. Fawn last year on an inch scale so that doubtless charts of them will shortly be published by the Admiralty.12
The East Coast of Africa South of Mombas has a fringing reef and is itself composed of coral rock.13 From Wasin to Punganis however there is a barrier of large coral reefs from 2 to 5 miles off shore with a deep channel inside having sometimes as great a depth as 20 fathoms. An Admiralty chart of Tanga Harbour and its approaches has recently been published by the Admiralty which will give a good general idea of the coast in that district.14
Chas V Smith | Lieut: HMS. Fawn
CD annotations
Footnotes
Bibliography
Catalogue of Admiralty charts, plans, and sailing directions, 1898. London: Her Majesty’s Stationery Office. 1898.
Chambers, Keith S. and Munro, Doug. 1980. The ‘mystery’ of Gran Cocal: European discovery and mis-discovery in Tuvalu. Journal of the Polynesian Society 89: 167–98.
Horsburgh, James. 1836. India directory: or, directions for sailing to and from the East Indies, China, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, Brazil, and the interjacent ports. 4th edition. 2 vols. London: W. H. Allen and Co.
Summary
Notes on reefs in the SW Pacific and the Indian Ocean.
Letter details
- Letter no.
- DCP-LETT-8131
- From
- Charles Valentine Smith
- To
- Charles Robert Darwin
- Sent from
- unstated
- Source of text
- DAR 69: A61–2
- Physical description
- AmemS 2pp
Please cite as
Darwin Correspondence Project, “Letter no. 8131,” accessed on 20 March 2023, https://www.darwinproject.ac.uk/letter/?docId=letters/DCP-LETT-8131.xml